How to Make Natural Emulsified Green Tea Body Butter
Today, we will make another formulation for this winter to prevent skin going dry, yet not oily. Body butters are rich creams consisting of butters and oils. Butters like Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Murumuru Butter are widely used. Major portion consists of butters with little amount of Oil, arrow root powder or corn starch to reduce greasiness. Butters are whipped to form airy consistency. It melts and forms a layer on the skin when applied preventing dryness and is an essential during colder months.
Then, why did I make an emulsified version?
It is hot in the mornings while cold in evenings and night in Hyderabad. Anhydrous butters feel oily in the mornings, so my family prefers emulsified butters. If you would like to try the emulsified version, here is one.
About the ingredients used:
This body butter has Green tea butter and Green tea extract. Green tea butter is not a normal butter. Extract or powder is added to hydrogenated oils to make a butter.
Green tea has polyphenolic compound EGCG (epigallocatechin-3-gallate), which is anti-oxidant and anti- inflammatory. It is a soothing ingredient.
Tomato seed Oil is light oil which is also a soothing ingredient and is rich in Lycopene, anti-oxidant. It is known to heal dry and chapped skin.
To add some more moisturizing properties, Glycerin is added. Glycerin is a humectant which draws moisture from the environment or from deeper layers of skin to the top layer of skin, keeping it hydrated. This is what we need in winters :)
Cucumber extract is yet another soothing and skin-calming ingredient.
The fragrance part has some lovely Ylang- Ylang E.O and Sandalwood E.O. Ylang- Ylang and Sandalwood make a great blend which is really calming. I personally prefer this combination for my dad.
Mica is used to color it green, but it isn't essential.
Body Butter with Xanthan Gum and Sepimax Zen
The one on the left is made with 10% Green tea butter, 7% Tomato Seed Oil, 4% Olivem 1000 with Cetearyl Alcohol 1% and Xanthan Gum 0.3%.
It has a rich buttery texture and forms a thin layer on the skin.
On the right has Green Tea Butter if 8%, Tomato Seed Oil 7%, Olivem 1000 4% and Sepimax Zen 0.3%. This has a consistency between lotion and cream but feels smooth due to Sepimax Zen which is a specialized texturizing polymer.
Sepimax Zen isn't considered natural, hence, I have not included in below formulation. But inclusion of it improves the feel and texture.
Let us see the ingredients required and how to make it.
Natural Emulsifier Olivem 1000 and Preservative Euxyl PE 9010:
Olivem 1000 is Olive derived PEG free non-ionic Oil-in-water emulsifier. It is a great alternative to Synthetic Emulsifiers and is widely used in Natural Skin care products. Olivem 1000 has the ability to generate liquid crystal structures that mimic the outermost layer of the skin. It makes thicker and rich creams. To stabilize the emulsion gum and fatty alcohol like Cetearyl Alcohol are added.
INCI Name: Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate
Euxyl PE 9010 is an ECOCERT approved broad spectrum liquid preservative which has a good pH range upto 12. It is paraben free and formaldehyde free.
INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredients Required: (50g)
Phase A: Heated Oil Phase
Green Tea Butter 10% (5g)
Tomato Seed Oil 7% (3.5g)
Olivem 1000 4% (2g)
Cetearyl Alcohol 1% (0.5g)
Phase B: Heated Water Phase
Xanthan Gum 0.3% (0.15g)
Rose Glycerite (or Glycerin) 3% (1.5g)
Water 70.5% (35.25g)
(I only use distilled water in all my formulations)
Phase C: Cool down Phase
Euxyl PE 9010 Preservative 1% (0.5g)
Green Tea Extract 1% (0.5g)
Cucumber Extract 1% (0.5g)
Ylang Ylang E.O 0.4% (0.2g)
Sandalwood E.O 0.6% (0.3g)
Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.2% (0.1g)
Mica 1/16tsp or pinch
How to Make it?
1) First mix Glycerin and Xanthan Gum to form a paste, add little water at a time and mix it thoroughly. Heat it on a double boiler until gum is mixed properly if it isn't.
2) Add Phase A ingredients in a beaker and melt it on a double boiler.
3) Pour Phase A in Phase B and blend it using immersion or stick blender until it has a smooth texture and has no separation of phases.
4) Once it comes to room temperature, add cool down phase ingredients and stir it again.
5) Pour in a cream jar.
And that's how easy to make emulsified body butter.
Do you want to watch this, click here?
Substitutions:
1) Guar gum or Sepimax Zen or HEC can be used in place of Xanthan Gum. The use of gum here is to stabilize emulsion.
2) Any Broad Spectrum Preservative like Germall Plus or Optiphen can be added for Euxyl PE 9010
3) Montanov 68 or Synthetic emulsifier like Emulisfiying wax NF can be used in place of Olivem 1000 but both gives different texture to end product at same ratio. So, you might need to adjust the ratio when using different emulsifier.
4) Different F.O or E.O can be used in place of Ylang- Ylang and Sandalwood E.O.
5) Light Carrier Oil like Avocado Oil or Heavier Oils like Castor Oil can be added for Tomato Seed Oil.
6) Different Butter and Extracts can be used. But it wouldn't be Green tea Body Butter with a different butter and extract :)
Shelf life:
This Body Butter can be used for 6 months to 1 year if stored properly.
Typical Usage Rates:
Olivem 1000: 1.5 -4%
Cetearyl Alcohol: 0.5-3%
Xanthan Gum: 0.1- 2%
Glycerine: less than 5%
Euxyl PE 9010: 0.5-1%
Green Tea Extract: 0.1- 2%
Cucumber extract: 0.7-1.5%
Ylang Ylang E.O: less than 0.8%
Sandalwood E.O: less than 2%
Where to Buy Ingredients - supplier links: (Click on the links to open)
You can check my page (Where to Buy Cosmetic Ingredients and Containers in India?) for local supplier details.
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