DIY Hyaluronic acid and Niacinamide Serum
Who doesn't like facial serums? Facial serums are light, moisturizing and they absorb quickly. I like them too. I have made Niacinamide Serum and Vitamin C serum few weeks ago which my skin really likes. Today, we will discussing about one of them, Niacinamide Serum.
6) Once you see it in nice consistency, check the pH, adjust to pH 6 or your desired pH and pour in a serum bottle.
Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 which had good results for skin issues. It definitely makes skin moisturized but also helps in reducing hyperpigmentation. I have discussed about it a bit in the 'DIY Moisturizing Niacinamide cream' blog few weeks ago. You can check that out.
Story behind the ingredients:
1) Niacinamide: Main ingredient, added to make my skin heal from acne pigmentation
2) DL Panthenol: also known as Provitamin B5, it adds moisturizing properties.
3) Sodium Gluconate: Chelating agent which I had access to.
4) Ylang Ylang Hydrosol: To add scent and some soothing benefits. I have not used any fragrance apart from hydrosol. You can add water soluble fragrance and add water instead of hydrosol.
5) Kakadu Plum extract: Water soluble extract with Vitamin C and good anti-oxidant properties
6) Cucumber extract: more soothing ingredients
7) Propanediol 1,3: I have used this to mix Euxyl PE 9010 since I dissolves in polar solvents only. I have used glycerin and found Euxyl PE solubilized in water because of addition of HA, since HA has suspending properties. But when Propanediol is used, it forms a stable, non sticky serum.
8) Preservative Euxyl PE 9010: Geogard ECT is effective at pH 5 while Euxyl PE 9010 is a broad spectrum preservative.
9) Vegan Hyaluronic acid: This is the gelling ingredient and it also adds humectant properties. Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in skin and is a powerful humectant. HEC at 1.5% is a okayish swap for HA in this case if you are only looking for gelling ingredient. Tamarindus Indica, green alternative of HA is also a good swap but I see that it doesn’t make serum transparent, it has a whitish hue in the serum.
Ingredients required: (30g)
Phase A:
Niacinamide 5% (1.5g)
DL Panthenol 2% (0.6g)
Sodium Gluconate 0.1% (0.03g)
Ylang Ylang Hydrosol 84.9% (25.47g)
Phase B:
Kakadu Plum extract 2% (0.6g)
Cucumber extract 1% (0.3g)
Phase C:
Propanediol 1,3 3% (0.9g)
Euxyl PE 9010 1% (0.3g)
Phase D:
Hyaluronic acid powder 1% (0.3g)
Citric acid solution to adjust pH
If you want to calculate for different batch size, I have a calculator. To check that, you can click here
How to make it?
1) Pour Phase A ingredients in a beaker and stir it to dissolve.
2) Mix Phase C ingredients in a separate container or beaker.
3) Measure Phase B ingredients in a separate container or beaker.
4) Now add all the above three phases and stir to mix
5) Sprinkle Hyaluronic acid and leave it for few hours, at least 3 hours so that it dissolves everything and is lump free. Cover it with a lid to prevent dust and other things falling into serum.
That's all. It is cold processed and you don't need heat. You can store it for few months until you see it going bad. As per my experience, it should be good at least for 6 months.
Typical usage rates:
Niacinamide: 1-5%
DL Panthenol: 0.5-5%
Sodium Gluconate: 0.1-1.0%
Kakadu Plum extract: 1-5%
Cucumber extract: 1-2%
Propanediol 1,3: 1-10%
Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin): 0.5-1%
Hyaluronic acid powder: 0.1-2%
Where to Buy Ingredients - supplier links: (Click on the links to open)
You can check my page (Where to Buy Cosmetic Ingredients and Containers in India?) for local supplier details.
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