DIY Vitamin C and Panthenol Serum
It is the spring season and in few months temperature go high. Temperatures are rising and feeling warm in the day time. I personally like using water based serums and mists because of the heat. In the last post, I showed you how I make Niacinamide serum. Today we will be making a Vitamin C Serum. I use Vitamin C serum in the day and Niacinamide serum in the evening. I don't mix these actives either in serum or during application.
Coming to the ingredients, we all know that Vitamin C is a strong anti-oxidant, it fights against free radicals. It is also a brightening ingredient which helps in fading scars. The form that I have used here is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid which is etherified form of Vitamin C, stable and water soluble. There are other forms of Vitamin C like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP, water soluble), Ascorbyl Glucoside (ECOCERT), Ascorbyl Palmitate and L- Ascorbic Acid (highly unstable), Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (oil soluble) etc. All these forms work at different pH and are soluble in different solvents like oil and water. Check with supplier or in documentation for the pH and other criteria.
This serum also has Panthenol which is form of Vitamin B5. It is a moisturizing and skin softening ingredient. It dissolves in water easily.
Two humectants are added. Propanediol 1,3 and Sodium lactate. Preservative Euxyl pe 9010 dissolves better in Propanediol and is also non-sticky.
Natural arbutin extract (Guava extract) and Natural anti-acne extract blend: I found both of these interesting. Arbutin extract(Guava) has a light pinkish color, it also helps in reducing scars and pigmentation. Anti-acne extract blend is from Aethon international. It is orangish-brown color and key ingredients are- Neem, manjishta, fenugreek, lemon , papaya, arnica, calendula, birch, jojoba, lavender, orange, rose, turmeric, tea tree, patchouli, cinnamon, tulsi, witch hazel.
Euxyl PE 9010 isn't much water soluble but soluble in propanediol 1,3. I have first mixed preservative in propanediol before adding to water. It is suspended and stabilised by the gum added.
Generally Hyaluronic acid is used, but here I have used HEC since Hyaluronic acid is costly and most may not have it. Hydroxy ethyl cellulose (HEC) is a gelling ingredient which forms transparent gels.
You can certainly add water soluble skin safe color and water soluble fragrance. You can swap water with hydrosol for natural scent.
Note: pH of the end product should be between 4- 5.5 for 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid. It generally works better at lower pH, so I have adjusted the pH of serum to 4.5 by adding citric acid solution. I have a video in YouTube on how to make 50% citric acid solution and how to calibrate pH meters if you want to know.
Now, let's hop onto making serum.
Ingredients required: (50g)
Phase A:
Distilled Water or Hydrosol 43.4% (21.7g)
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid 2% (1g)
Sodium Gluconate 0.1% (0.05g)
dl- Panthenol 2% (1g)
Phase B:
Natural Arbutin extract(Guava) 2% (1g)
Anti acne extract blend 3% (1.5g)
Phase C:
Propanediol 1, 3 3% (1.5g)
Euxyl pe 9010 1% (0.5g)
Phase D:
Distilled water or Hydrosol 40% (20g)
Sodium Lactate 2% (1g)
HEC 1.5% (0.75g)
Citric acid solution to adjust pH
Procedure:
1) Measure phase A ingredients in a beaker and stir to dissolve everything.
2) Take phase C ingredients in a separate beaker or cup and mix preservative in propanediol 1,3
3) Add HEC in sodium lactate and mix it without lumps. Add it to water and put on double boiler until everything is transparent and has no lumps.
4) Once HEC is dissolved, hydrated and removed from heat, add to phase A slowly. Stir it well.
5) Now add phase B and phase C measured ingredients. One last stir and it is ready.
6) Test pH and adjust between 4-5 by adding few drops of citric acid solution. You could leave it for sometime or pour in a serum bottle.
(It is better to use opaque or dark colored bottles or containers to store Vitamin C serums)
It isn't sticky but Hyaluronic acid serum has a different feel when compared to it. It has a cushiony feel. If you want to add HA instead of HEC, check for the right usage rate for this consistency and add in the last. Leave it for few hours and it will be ready, You can use sepimax zen too. Just sprinkle and leave for few hours (8 hours) to hydrate.
Any swaps possible?
Yes, You can swap water with hydrosols of your choice.
Extracts can be any. Just make sure you aren't over exfoliating. Also, I use only one active in a serum for now.
Propanediol 1,3 is solvent for Euxyl pe 9010. If you are using a water soluble preservative, you can remove this or swap it with other humectant like glycerin, sodium lactate.
Sodium lactate can be replaced with any other humectant you prefer.
Sodium gluconate is added to stabilize the serum. You can swap it for other chelating agent like Dermofeel PA3.
Check the usage rate before you do a swap.
Typical Usage rates:
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid: 0.5-3%
Sodium Gluconate: 0.1-1.0%
dl- Panthenol: 0.5-5%
Natural Arbutin extract(Guava): 1-2%
Anti acne extract blend: 1-5%
Propanediol 1, 3: 1-10%
Euxyl pe 9010: 0.5-1%
Sodium Lactate: 0.5-5%
HEC: 0.1- 3%
Where to Buy Ingredients - supplier links: (Click on the links to open)
You can check my page (Where to Buy Cosmetic Ingredients and Containers in India?) for local supplier details.
Do you want to watch this on Youtube? 👉 Click Here
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