How to Formulate a Lipstick and How to Make Fuchsia Pink Lipstick
How it all started?
One of the first things which I wanted to make was a lipstick. I used to order lipsticks online by seeing the images in ad. I eagerly waited to use it, but the color didn't suit me most of the times. And, these days Natural Lipstick is in the limelight. And, the ones available here has some or the other non-natural ingredients.
I searched a lot about how to make a lipstick. I mostly saw videos on how to use crayons as lipsticks or how to use beetroot as lipstick. I was in search of making it from scratch and not using beet root or crayons. Also, pigments used by other You Tuber's were not available here. I ordered few raw materials, tried few lip balms and lip sticks. Here, I will be sharing the one I like most.
What does a Lipstick contain?
In general and in major lipsticks, the main ingredients are Oils, Butters, Waxes and Pigments. Texturizing agents, preservatives and anti-oxidants are also added in few lipsticks. Commercial lipsticks contain IPM (Isopropyl Myristate) , Lanolin, BHT, Silica, Isododecane, Titanium Dioxide and many other chemicals too which give the smooth glide and long lasting feel.
Major Ingredients:
1) Oils and Butters: These are used to soften and moisturize lips. It also provides a good feel.
- Castor oil is widely used because of its shine and viscosity. Plant Oils like Coconut Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Avocado Oil , Jojoba Oil etc. can also be used.
- Mostly used butters are Shea butter, Cocoa Butter, Mango Butter, Kokum Butter and Cupuacu Butter.
- Commercial lipsticks may also contain Mineral Oils, Silicones, Lanolin and Cetyl Alcohol.
2) Waxes: Waxes form the most important part. It gives the structure to the lipstick.
- Generally, two or more waxes are combined for a solid and smooth structure. Beeswax, Candelilla wax(Vegan), Carnauba wax(Vegan) and Ozokerite wax are commonly used.(Since I am making a Vegan lipstick, I am using Carnauba wax. I don't have Candelilla wax)
3) Pigments: Pigments give the most beautiful color to the lipstick.
- Mica's, Iron Oxide's and Titanium dioxide are widely used.
- Iron Oxides are pigments from earth. It many contain heavy traces of lead, mercury and other chemicals. So, always check if it is safe to use in lip products.
- Mica's are glassy minerals combined with pigments for shimmery colors. FDA has some regulation on usage rates of these. Please check before using.
- Carmine is also used in most products and is considered natural but is not a vegetarian color. It is derived from beetles.
- Multiple colors are combined to get the desired color like Corals, Pinks, Nudes, Mauve etc.
- Natural Pigments(flower and fruit powder pigments) are not easily available and doesn't give the color similar to a commercial lipstick. I tried using beetroot powder but was not satisfied since the color degraded after few days.
- Alkanet root powder and Annatto seed powder gives good Pink and Orange tint. These can be infused in Oil. I have made a lip balm by infusing Alkanet root powder. I will share it soon. I have a video on tinted lip balm using Annatto Oleoresin, you can check it by clicking here.
- Clays like Australian Red Clay or Pink clay can be used but it is not widely available and all are not approved to be used in lip products. (I wanted to get red clay but I only had an option to buy pack of 3 different clays in Amazon :( )
4) Flavor Oils: There are multiple lip safe flavor oils available like Banana, Bubblegum, Strawberry, Caramel etc. Peppermint E.O can be added at a lower rate like 0.1%. To add sweetness, Stevia is added by few.
Note: Don't add food flavors or food colors in lipsticks.
5) Texturing agents: Kaolin Clay can be added to give some Matt texture.
6) Preservative/ Antioxidant: BHT is mostly added to prevent lipstick going bad. This can be left if you are making for self. Even in commercial lipsticks, BHT is added at very low rate. I believe it is 0.1%
Ingredients to make Fuchsia Pink Lipstick: (10 g batch)
Heated Oil Phase:
1) Cupuacu Butter 10% - 1 g
2) Kokum Butter 15% - 1.5 g
3) Coconut Oil 22.9%- 2.29 g
4) Castor Oil 10% - 1 g
5) Sweet Almond Oil 10% - 1 g
6) Carnauba Wax 25% - 2.5 g
7) Kaolin Clay 2% - 0.2 g
Cool Down Phase:
1) Peppermint E.O 0.1% - 0.01 g
2) Pink Color Pigment (Lilac Lip Safe Color) 4% - 0.4 g
3) NT Red Lip Safe Color 1% - 0.1 g
Procedure:
1) Add Oil Phase Ingredients (Oils, Butters, Kaolin Clay and Waxes) in a beaker and heat on a double boiler until all the butters and waxes are melted.
2) Once the ingredients are melted, add pigments and peppermint E.O. Do not add E.O in very hot oil. Mix it quickly and pour in the mold or lipbalm tube (Due to high portion of wax, it becomes solid quite fast. So, you need to pour it quickly. If in case it becomes solid, put on a double boiler and melt it on low heat).
3) Let it set for few minutes. You can unmold it after 15-20 minutes and put it in a lipstick tube.
Shelf Life:
The oils and butters added have a shelf life of year. So, this lipstick should be good for an year if not exposed to moisture.
Substitutions: (Substituting it with the ingredients and same quantity provided will not give the same texture, need to experiment with different ratios)
- Avocado Oil, Jojoba Oil can be used in place of Coconut oil and Sweet Almond Oil.
- Shea butter, Cocoa Butter can be added in place of Kokum Butter and Cupuacu Butter.
- Any pigment can be used, but check with supplier or check on FDA website for safe usage rates.
- Any flavor oil can be used.
- Kaolin clay is optional.
Usage rates:
Flavor oil and pigment usage rates vary. Please check with supplier for usage under safe limits.
Peppermint E.O should be used below 0.4% ( Peppermint E.O will sting, start with 0.1% to
see how it feels)
Where to Buy Ingredients - supplier links: (Click on the links to open)
Do you want to watch this on Youtube? 👉 Click Here.
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