How to Make Rose and Grapes Cream Gel (Night Moisturizer)
I wanted to try creamy gels with less oil content and no Cetereayl Alcohol or E-Wax. Here is
the simple one I made. It can be used as night cream for a hydrated feel in the morning.
I have used Hibiscus and Grape
Glycerite for it's color and
properties.
I have added some Rose Geranium
Hydrosol and Rose petals infused
Almond Oil.
About the Ingredients:
Hibiscus is known for its anti-ageing benefits, evens skin tone. It is rich in anti-oxidants and
helps skin stay hydrated.
Grapes has Vitamin C which help in rejuvenation of skin cells and is richer in anti-oxidants.
Rose Geranium Hydrosol and Allantoin soothes skin and helps in healing.
Almond Oil is light weight moisturizing oil which helps in reducing acne scars
Sepimax Zen is a specialized Polymer which forms Cream Gels.
(Supplier provided info for Sepimax zen: It can handle upto 25% of oils with a gum added)
But I have used only 4% oils here.
How to Make a Glycerite?
the herbs dissolved completely. 
For Grapes Glycerite, I have washed Black Grapes
properly, dried it to remove water. Later, I have cut
chopped Grapes into tiny pieces and added in a jar with
Glycerin covering the Grapes completely.
Generally 70% or 80% Glycerin is added, rest
filled with water. But, I chose to make 100% Glycerin
infusion. Kept it in dark place, agitated it every day for
7 days and then filtered it after 7 days using cheese
cloth and funnel. I have added 0.8% preservative after filtering it.
How to make Rose infused Almond oil?
I have washed and dried fresh Organic Rose petals in Sun for two weeks. Added 20% of Rose
petals and 80% Sweet Almond Oil in a jar and kept it in dark place. Agitated and mixed it
daily for 3 weeks and then filtered it using Cheese cloth. I have added 0.1% Vit E to increase
the Shelf life.
Note:
It is fun to experiment with fresh fruits, flowers and dried herbs but few things need to considered. I have mentioned some of them below.
- Organic Flowers or Fruits can only be used for Glycerites and not one with the pesticides.
- Fresh fruits needs to be washed properly and dried before adding to Glycerites.
- Glycerin to Water ratio differs for different Glycerites.
- Adding preservative will prevent any bacterial contamination but is not mandatory.
- Sanitize the jars and Spatulas that will be used for making Glycerite.
- Always follow Good Manufacturing Practices.
- Though Glycerites are stable for 6 months to 1 year sometimes it might be contaminated, Discard the Glycerites if you see a difference in smell or color or see some particles.
- When you want to sell the products with home made Glycerites, get the product tested for efficacy, stability and preservation..
- Commercial extracts have efficacy and pre-determined active ingredients. But, when an extract is made at home, we may not know the exact active ingredients in it and can also be contaminated if proper GMP is not followed.
Ingredients required for making Cream Gel: (30 g Batch)
Water Phase:
- Hibiscus Glycerite 2% (0.6 g)
- Grape Glycerite 2% (0.6 g)
- Rose Geranium Hydrosol 88.6% (26.58 g)
- Allantoin 0.5% (0.15 g)
Oil Phase:
- Sweet Almond Oil 0.4% (1.2 g)
- Sepimax Zen 2% (0.6 g)
Cool Down Phase:
- Preservative- Geogard ECT 0.8% (0.24 g)
- Vit E 0.1% (0.03 g)
Procedure:
1) Add 0.6 g of Hibiscus Glycerite and 0.6 g of Grapes Glycerite in a beaker.
2) Add 26.58 g of Rose Geranium Hydrosol. I generally add 10% extra since this would go on
heat and some water would be evaporated. Rose water can also be used in place of hydrosol.
3) Next, add Allantoin of 0.15 g in the same beaker. Heat this phase in water until Allantoin is
dissolved completely.
4) For the Oil Phase, add Sweet Almond Oil of 1.2 g in a separate beaker.
5) Add 0.6 g of Sepimax Zen and stir in continuously. I have heated it for couple of seconds.
6) Pour heated water phase to oil phase and mix it properly. I have used Coffee Frother to mix.
7) Once you see gelling consistency, pour in a container.
(Generally, Sepimax Zen is sprinkled and left for 8 hours to hydrate. But, few suppliers
suggest to add Sepimax Zen in heated oil or water phase (upto 80 degree) and whizzing with a
stick blender on full speed)
Ingredients and Usage Rate:
Glycerite: Using more than 5% makes it sticky if we don't have any other ingredients to handle
the stickiness.
Allantoin: (Soothing agent )Can be Synthetic or Natural. It is found in Comfrey and other
plants. Usage rate: 0.2 to 5%
Sepimax Zen: INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (thickening, stabilizing and texturizing)
Usage rate: 0.5 - 5%
Geogard ECT: Natual Preservative (Meets COSMOS and ECOCERT standards)
Usage rate: 0.6- 1% ( Cannot be used in products for kids under 5 years)
Vitamin E: Increases the shelf life of oils and prevents oils go rancid.
Usage rate: 0.5-2.5% final concentration for skin effects, 0.1-1.0% for stabilizing oils in
products.
Shelf life:
I generally use it within 3 months.
How to use it?
I use it as night cream by applying tiny amount on face and massaging all over face and neck.
Where to Buy Ingredients?
You can check my page (Where to Buy Cosmetic Ingredients and Containers in India?) for local supplier details.
Do you want to watch this on Youtube? 👉 Click Here.
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