DIY Cherry Blossom Exfoliating Cream Cleanser
If yes, this blog is for you. This is a hand and foot cleanser. You can use this cleanser as facial cleanser unless you are sensitive to any of the ingredients or you find it over exfoliating. You can remove pumice powder or jojoba beads if you find it over exfoliating. Please feel free to experiment and let me know how it goes. I will be happy to hear.
This cleanser contains ingredients which are suitable for most skin types. Let us see the ingredients used and their story.
What are the ingredients used?
Kokum butter: Kokum butter is a crumbly, not-so-greasy butter. It has a good skin feel which I like and it is suitable for acne prone skin too.
Safflower Oil: It is a light, fast absorbing oil and is also a good emollient.
Olivem 1000, Cetearyl alcohol: This combination is used to thicken the cleanser and have some good wash off feel. As per my experience, Olivem 10o0 often requires a co-emulsifier to be stable.
Glycerin: It is a good humectant.
Xanthan gum: it is added to stabilize the formula
Coco betain: Amphoteric surfactant, added for a easy rinse off.
Cherry Blossom F.O: I got this one from Aethon international. It has pretty strong scent and smells like tonic at higher usage rate. I don't know if it is the same with others or may be I somehow connected cherry blossom to tonic 😀. I have used 0.6% only in this cleanser.
Pumice powder: It is derived from volcanic ash and is super fine powder. I prefer using a mask since it is easy to get into nose and lungs. It is known as gentle exfoliant
Jojoba beads: These are bio-degradable beads made from Jojoba oil.
Vitamin E tocopherol: It prevents oils going rancid.
Pink mica: For some gorgeous color.
Euxyl pe 9010: It is a broad-spectrum preservative which works effective at wide range of pH. If I have ever said it as a natural preservative, I apologize for the mistake, it isn't a natural one. Euxyl k 712 is natural but works effective only up to 5.5 pH
Ingredients weights and percentages:
Phase A: (Oil)
Kokum Butter 7%
Safflower Oil 7%
Olivem 1000 4%
Cetearyl alcohol 2%
Phase B: (Water)
Water 67% (10% of 67%=6.7% extra for water evaporated)
Glycerin 3%
Xanthan Gum 0.2%
Coco betain 5%
Phase C: (Cool down)
Cherry Blossom F.O: 0.6%
Pumice powder: 3%
Jojoba beads: 0.1%
Vitamin E Tocopherol: 0.1%
Euxyl pe 9010: 1%
Mica: 1/8tsp or a pinch
Citric acid: applicable as per the pH adjustment
If you want to make a bigger batch or alter, check my calculator for quick and easy conversion of percentages to weights, click here
Procedure:
1) First mix xanthan gum in glycerin.
2) Add all phase A ingredients in a beaker and phase B ingredients in a separate beaker.
3) Heat both the phases on double boiler until everything is melted in Phase A.
4) Pour Phase A into B and blend using blender.
5) Once it forms a good emulsion and a nice cream, add pumice powder, jojoba beads, mica, preservative, F.O, vitamin E and blend it again.
6) Test the pH and adjust to 5.5.
7) Pour it in a round jar or a squeezy bottle. I find it difficult to use in airless or serum bottle.
Substitutions:
1) You can swap Olivem 1o00 with another non-ionic emulsifier like Motanov 68 but the consistency may differ.
2) Safflower oil can be swapped with another light oil and kokum butter can be swapped with mango butter.
3) Propanediol 1,3 can be used in place of glycerin.
4) Euxyl pe 9010 can be swapped with another broad spectrum preservative like Geogard ECT or Euxyl K 712.
Typical usage rates:
Butters/Oils: Up to 100%
Pumice powder: Up to 3%
Olivem 1000: 3 to 8%
Cetearyl alcohol: 1 to 2% as co-emulsifier
Xanthan Gum: 0.1 to 2%
Coco betain: 4-40%
Euxyl PE 9010: 0.5 to 1%
Where to Buy Ingredients - supplier links: (Click on the links to open)
You can check my page (Where to Buy Cosmetic Ingredients and Containers in India?) for local supplier details.
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