DIY Coco Hair Conditioner using Kerabase

If you want to make a conditioner using a base, Kerabase MB is a good one to start with because it has a conditioning agent, fatty alcohol, chelating agent and neutralizing agent. Emollients, water, preservatives and extracts are just needed in addition to Kerabase. Instead of figuring out which cationic agent to be used, this can be used. It can be used in hair conditioner, mask and other hair applications. Usage rate varies with application. It conditions hair and gives a good shine. 

Although it isn't completely natural but has a major portion of bio based ingredients and good marketing appeal (from Inolex product brochure)

It is easy to make and requires few ingredients. Let us see the ingredients used.

What are the ingredients used and why?

Kerabase MB (INCI) : Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine (and) Polyester-11 (and) Aspartic Acid (and) EDTA: It is the core component of this hair conditioner. I have used 10% only here, for making creams it can be used at higher rates upto 15%. To make hair rinses, it can be used as low as 6%.

Coconut Oil: I just included for its emollient properties. Any other light oil can be used too.

Lexfeel N5 MB (INCI: Diheptyl Succinate (and) Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer) : This is an alternative to silicones which enhances shine in hair products. Other natural silicones suitable for hair products or synthetic silicones can be used. If you are using dimethicone, use it at lower rate like 2% because it has a tendency to build up if hair is not washed regularly.

Distilled water: I get distilled/demineralized water from local chemical lab supplies store. You can use either of it. We would be heating it approximately for 20 minutes along with oil phase.

Glycerin: Humectant for some moisturizing properties. Propanediol 1,3 or hydrovance could also be used.

Goegard ECT: ECOCERT preservative.

Xylishine (INCI: Xylitylglucoside - Anhydroxylitol - Maltitol - Xylitol - Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract) It is know for its repairing and moisturising properties for hair. Pentavitin or Panthenol can be used for its moisturizing properties though all don't have same results and components.

Coconut F.O: I have used a conditioner before which smells coconut-ty and I liked it. So, added same fragrance and hence the name coco hair conditioner :)

Anti-dandruff extract blend: It is a blend of natural extracts to prevent dandruff. To be honest, I don't know if this has a difference or not. I have been using it from few months and I didn't have dandruff too. I am not sure as of now if this has some effect or my scalp is balanced already. I would update in few weeks if I see a difference when used in colder months.

Ingredients weights: (100g)

Phase A:

Kerabase 10%  (10g)

Coconut Oil 2%  (2g)

Lexfeel N5 MB 4%  (4g)

Phase B:

Distilled water 75% + additional 10% of 75% for water lost in evaporation (75g+7g=82g)

Glycerin 2% (2g) 

Phase C:

Geogard ECT 1% (1g)

Xylishine 3% (3g)

Coconut F.O 1%  (1g)

Anti-dandruff extract blend 2% (2g)

Citric acid solution (applicable as per pH)

If you want to make a bigger batch or alter, check my calculator for quick and easy conversion of percentages to weights, click here

How to make it?

1) Add Phase A ingredients in a beaker and Phase B ingredients in a separate beaker.

2) Melt on double boiler for 20 minutes or higher until Kerabase is melted.

3) Pour melted oil phase into water phase or water phase into oil phase and blend it in intervals.

4) Once it is at room temperature, add cool down phase ingredients and blend it again for few seconds.

5) Check the pH and adjust accordingly to 5.5

6) Pour in a tottle or squeezable bottle.

Tadaa, conditioner is ready. Isn't it easy to make?

For substitutions, you can check 'what are the ingredients used and why?' section.

Typical usage rates:

Kerabase MB: 6% – 15%

Xylishine: 3%

Geogard ECT: 1%

Anti dandruff extracts: 2%

Glycerin: less than 5% in hair care (typical/common)

Where to Buy Ingredients - supplier links: (Click on the links to open)

You can check my page (Where to Buy Cosmetic Ingredients and Containers in India?) for local supplier details.

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