DIY Brightening Facial Lotion

 

Few of my subscribers have requested for a light facial lotion or cream that can be used in day because the climate in few states is humid and hot. It is the same in Hyderabad, I don't like to use heavy creams at all in morning. So, I have made this lotion which is light and moisturizing. Addition of Turmeric E.O, 3, 0 Ethyl ascorbic acid, licorice extract makes it a brightening lotion. Here brightening mean something which makes your skin glow and happy.  

What are the ingredients used and Why? Also, any substitutions?

Gelmaker Nat is the main ingredient which emulsifies the little oil in water and makes a thin lotion type gel. It is a cold process-able emulsifier which means you need not heat any ingredients. There are few other cold processed emulsifiers but I have not got a chance to experiment. Sepimax zen would work but it will make a cream gel and not lotion.

Jojoba oil is light oil which works for most skin types. It spreads smoothly and doesn't make skin oily. You can use other light oil but you need to check if it suits your skin and how it feels (in terms of spreadability).

Glycerin is a humectant which keeps skin moisturised.

3.0 ethyl ascorbic acid is form of Vitamin C which is stable and effective. Vitamin C works as an anti-oxidant and protects skin from oxidation. As per the supplier details, pH of the end product with this form of Vitamin C can be between 4-5.5. I have kept it at 5.5 because Gelmaker Nat works for pH between 5.5-12

Panthenol is form of Vitamin B5 which moisturizes and soothes irritated skin.

Turmeric hydrosol adds some fragrance and is known to have anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Hyaluronic acid is also a humectant but works from deep inside of skin and is helpful in skin healing.

Sandalwood essential oil adds some calming fragrance and is also known for anti-bacterial properties.

Licorice extract and Turmeric root E.O function as skin brightening ingredients. They may also help in reducing pigmentation and dark spots.

Vitamin E Tocopherol is added to prevent rancidity.

Humectants, extracts and essential oils can be substituted with the ones you prefer. But the common ones known for skin moisturizing and brightening are added here.

Preservative used is Geogard ECT. You can use other broad spectrum preservative which is comaptible with the ingredients like Euxyl PE 9010 or Liquid Germall Plus.

How to make HA 10% stock?

Generally 1% stock is prepared but it adds large amount of water when added in a product, so I thought to make 10% solution.

To make 10% solution, you would need

1.5% Euxyl K 712 preservative

10% HA powder

88.5% Distilled water

Store in any air tight container and use it within 3-6 months.

Note: This should not be applied on skin directly because it is highly concentrated.

Who can use the lotion and when?

This lotion is very light and can be used by oily and acne prone skin too unless you are allergic or sensitive to any ingredients.

It can be used daily once or twice, morning or evening.

Ingredient weights and percentages:

Phase A

Jojoba Oil 4% (1.6g)

Sandalwood E.O 0.3% (0.12g)

Gelmaker Nat 3% (1.2g)

Phase B:

Glycerin 2% (0.8g) (It is added in water, forgot to mention in the video)

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid 1% (0.4g)  

Panthenol 0.5% (0.2g)

Distilled water 62.9% (25.16g)

Turmeric hydrosol 20% (8g)

Phase C

HA 10% stock 3% (1.2g)

(Technically I am adding 0.3% or 0.3g of HA.

0.3*10=3%)

Licorice extract 2% (0.8g)

Geogard ECT 1% (0.4g)

Turmeric E.O 0.1% (0.04g)

Vitamin E 0.2% (0.08g)

TEA to adjust pH to 5.5

If you want to make a bigger batch or alter, check my calculator for quick and easy conversion of percentages to weights, click here

How to make it?

1) Add Phase A ingredients in a beaker and stir it to mix.

2) Add Phase B ingredients in another beaker and stir to dissolve all the powder ingredients.

3) Measure Phase C ingredients in a separate beaker or jar.

4) Pour Phase A oil phase into Phase B water phase and blend with immersion blender.

5) Add Phase C ingredients and blend again.

6) Test pH and add TEA to increase pH to 5.5

How to check and adjust pH?

You can make 10% dilution and test. I have videos on YT for pH testing and calibrating pH meter . You can check those.

Some notes from this formulation:

1) You can completely avoid Phase C and add water soluble ingredients in water phase and oil soluble ingredients in oil phase.

2) I have adjusted pH to 5.5 so that it works both for Emulsifier and Vitamin C.

Where to Buy Ingredients - supplier links: (Click on the links to open)

You can check my page (Where to Buy Cosmetic Ingredients and Containers in India?) for local supplier details.

Do you want to watch this on Youtube? 👉 Click Here