DIY Gojiberry AHA BHA Toner

 

AHA/BHA toner help in exfoliation of dead skin cells and is specially beneficial for oily and acne prone skin. Toners are generally used after face wash either with hands or using cotton. These toners are used twice or thrice weekly only, should not be used daily because it can over exfoliate and irritate skin.

The most common BHA(beta hydroxy acid) used in skin care products is Salicylic acid but it doesn't dissolve in water easily and crystallizes back if not dissolved properly. There are few solvents like propylene glycol, octyldodecanol, castor oil etc.which dissolves salicylic acid upon heating but is still a tedious task when making in small scale or at home. So, instead of salicylic acid I have used Biogenic Sallic 210 which uses latest encapsulation technology to dissolve easily in water. 

Biogenic Sallic 210 is 50% active with Salicylic acid. It is readily soluble at pH 7 and temperature 25 deg C.

Salicylic acid should be not used more than 2% in skin care products else it will be an OTC. It will be an OTC even if claimed as treatment for acne. It is lipid soluble and therefore helps in removing black heads and white heads. It is specially used in anti-acne treatments. It is often combined with AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) for best results.

AHA's are water soluble which sloughs off dead skin cells thereby reducing pigmentation and tan. Few examples of AHA's are lactic acid, glycolic acid and mallic acid. Lactic acid is mild in comparision to glycolic acid and is suitable for sensitive skin too.

Do remember that formulating with AHA and BHA can be tricky for beginners. These should not be used directly and below pH 3.5 (Specially when making at home). Also, sunscreen is must in daily routine.

This AHA/BHA Toner is one of my subscribers request.

I have included few humectants and moisturizing ingredients that go well with AHA and BHA. 

What are the ingredients used and why?

This toner doesn't have added fragrance, so I have included hydrosol for some mild scent. Fragrance oil or essential oil can be added but would need a solubilizer since oils and water doesn't mix.

Lactic acid is the AHA, Biogenic sallic 210 is the BHA used.

Glycerin is the humectant aded. Panthenol (Provitamin B5), Glycerin and Aquaxyl are added for moisturizing the skin. Sorbitol, Hydrovance can be used in place of glycerin. HA can also be included if you would like to. 

Cucumber extract is added for some soothing properties. 

Euxyl K 712 is the preservative here. Water soluble broad spectrum preservative compatible at pH lower than 5 and compatible with these ingredients can be used.

Sodium gluconate is chelating agent added to improve stability of the product.

Gojiberry extract has anti-oxidants which are beneficial for skin and it also adds an orangish color to the toner. 

TEA is added to raise the pH to 4.5 since lactic acid has pH around 2, it reduces the pH of the toner.

Who can use this and when?

It can be used by any skin type unless sensitive to any of the ingredients. AHA/BHA should be used weekly twice or thrice only, should never be used daily.

Ingredients weights and percentages:

Phase A:

Rose hydrosol 40%  

Distilled Water 46.5% 

Sodium gluconate 0.1% 

Panthenol 0.5% 

Biogenic Sallic 1%

Phase B:

Gojiberry extract 0.2%

Glycerin 3%

Phase C:

Cucumber extract 1.8%

Aquaxyl  2%

Lactic acid 3%

TEA 0.4%

Euxyl K 712 1.5%

How to make it?

1)  Add Phase A ingredients in a beaker and stir slowly to dissolve the powders in water.

2) Dissolve Gojiberry extract in glycerin so that it can be incorporated easily in water.

3) Add Phase C ingredients and Phase B ingredients in Phase A once powders are dissolved.

4) Check the pH and adjust to pH 4.5. pH can be as low as 2.5, do adjust pH and include the percentage instead of water in the next batches if you would like to. But you need to check pH for every batch since it can vary from batch to batch. I always use maximum percentage of preservative to preserve the product even in case of any changes after adjusting the pH.

5) Pour in a suitable pump or lotion bottle :)

How to check and adjust pH?

You can make 10% dilution and test. I have videos on YT for pH testing and calibrating pH meter . You can check those.

Where to Buy Ingredients - supplier links: (Click on the links to open)

You can check my page (Where to Buy Cosmetic Ingredients and Containers in India?) for local supplier details.

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