DIY Mandarin and Rosewood Body Yogurt
I am quite surprised how beautiful this picture came out, do you feel same? 😀 Let's discuss about photography some other day, but today will discuss about this body yogurt which is simple to make.
Body Yogurts are similar to creams but with a lighter feel. I think the concept of body yogurt came from Body Shop's Body Yogurt, may be. If you have any other info on this, please put in comments section.
I have seen some of the body yogurt's available in the market and I have noticed that these contain less to no amount of oil but has a silicon for emollient properties and quick rub-in time. Little to no extracts but some amount of humectants like Hyaluronic acid etc. It has a large portion of water and also has a lingering fragrance. You can define how you want your fragrance to be.
Let's see the ingredients that I have chosen to make this one and why.
What are the ingredients used and why?
Sea buckthorn oil: It is a good anti-oxidant with a nice rich yellow color. You could substitute it with other light carrier oil like grape seed or almond oil.
Emogreen L19: Emogreen is natural silicone (INCI: C15-19 Alkane) which has a soft and light skin feel. It can be susbtituted with other natural silicones like Lexfeel but the rub-in time and feel differs with different ingredients and proportions.
Sepimax zen: This is not swappable if you want to make this cream. Liquid or cold process emulsifiers like gelmaker nat may work but the wiggly consistency is quite difficult with other ingredients that are available here in India.
Glycerin: Affordable and good humectant.
Hyaluronic acid: This has two functions here, one is as humectant which keeps skin hydrated for a longer time, second is the consistency factor. It adds non tacky feel and also creamy texture which cannot be obtained only with Sepimax zen.
Geranium hydrosol: This adds some soothing properties and enhances the rose wood fragrance.
Preservative eco: Since the pH will be adjusted to less than 5.5, natural preservatives can be used. Euxyl pe 9010 can also be used.
Gojiberry extract: This gives the yogurt orangish color and also some anti-oxidant properties.
Mandarin E.O + Rosewood E.O: I particularly like this combination which is earthy and woody. This can be swapped with your preference E.O/F.O. Note that the combination used here is generally safe for face too.
HA stock:
I made a 10% stock so that it will be easy to incorporate in formulations directly. Here is how to prepare it.
To make 100g of HA stock,
10% High molecular weight HA powder (10g)
1% Euxyl K 712 or broad spectrum water soluble preservative (1g)
89% water (89g)
Now, if you want to add 1% HA to a formula, you will add 10g(i.e. it contains 1g HA+ 9g water). If you want to add 0.5% HA, you will add 5g.
This stock can be prepared in lesser quantity but the math here is a bit confusing. If you are confused, you can make 1% stock or simply hydrate required amount of HA in glycerin and add to water phase. Leave it for some time to hydrate completely.
Do not use this directly since the maximum usage rate is 2% and this is 10% concentrated
Who can use this and when?
Anybody can use this at any time. It suits acne prone skin too.
How to use?
Just scoop little amount of cream and apply. Never dip wet fingers to prevent contamination.
Ingredients required:
Oil Phase: Phase A
Seabuckthorn Oil 0.2%
Emogreen L19 1.8%
Sepimax zen 1.5%
Water Phase: Phase B
Glycerin 3%
(10%)HA stock 5% (Or HA powder 0.5%+4.5% water)
Distilled water 61.7%
Geranium hydrosol 25%
Cool down Phase: Phase C
Preservative eco (Geogard ECT) 1%
Gojiberry extract 0.3%
Mandarin E.O 0.3%
Rosewood E.O 0.2%
If you want to make a bigger batch or alter, check my calculator for quick and easy conversion of percentages to weights, click here
How to make it?
1) Add Phase A ingredients in a beaker and Phase B ingredients in another beaker.
(Note: Sepimax zen doesn't dissolve in oil since it is a water soluble gum. It can be added in heated oil or water phase when making cream gels. I have preferred to add in heated oil phase because it doesn't form lumps that are hard to dissolve in water. I made many batches this way and all came out good. Check out my other video/blog on cream gel)
3) Once off the heat, pour oil phase into water phase, stir and blend to form smooth emulsion.
4) When it comes to room temperature, add cool down ingredients and blend again.
5) Pour into a nice cream jar and scoop it :)
Things to note:
1) Adjust pH to 5.5 for good preservation.
2) Add Sepimax zen in heated oil phase for easy emulsion.
3) Dissolve powder extracts in water or glycerin to prevent forming specks or lumps when added in cool down phase.
4) If you don't want to make/use HA stock, add it in water in advance to allow hydration time.
Where to Buy Ingredients - supplier links: (Click on the links to open)
You can check my page (Where to Buy Cosmetic Ingredients and Containers in India?) for local supplier details.
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